How to fix a close coupled toilet

how to fix a close coupled toilet

How To Fix a Leaking Close Coupled Toilet Cistern

Feb 09,  · Got a leaking close coupled toilet cistern? Watch how I remove a close coupled toilet cistern and find out what is causing the cgsmthood.com Coupled Cistern Kit. Here is how to fit a close coupled toilet. Step 1. If you’re replacing an old toilet, you’ll already have access to the waste pipe and the water inlet. Start by fitting the cistern parts using the instructions provided. Step 2. Connect the cistern to the pan. Step 3Estimated Reading Time: 3 mins.

One quick note, if you flush your toilet again right now you will realise it only leaks when you flush. A flat and a cross head screwdriver, an adjustable spanner and a large pair of pliers or a toilet siphon spanner. I say this because you may never use the spanner again, which makes it a waste of money, where as the pliers will always come in handy. The plumbers favorite pliers are the Bahco Slip Joint Plier, I will leave a link to Amazon, so you can check them out. Once you have isolated the water supply give the toilet a flush to empty the cistern and to make sure the water supply is no longer filling the cistern back up.

Next, lift off the cistern lid and disconnect the cable attached to the flush button if there is one. You will now see some residual water at the bottom of the cistern. You can either soak up the water with a towel or use a wet and dry vacuum OR if your feeling strong, pour it into the bath once you have the cistern disconnected from the bowl. Gently turn the cistern upside down and rest it in the bath.

This will allow any excess water to drain out of the siphon the flush part. And if your lucky, like I was notit will be plastered in silicone sealant or some kind of mastic. Moving over to the bowl, if your lucky its clean, if not give the area a good clean and dry well. Silicone sealant removers are pretty simple to use, most have an applicator brush fitted to the underside of the lid. This will save any confusion when ordering or asking for a replacement part.

Usually the pipe will measure 1. Or visit Amazon for the 1. It is best to hold the siphon to stop it turning while you loosen the nut. Once the nut is loose undo the rest with your hand. These plates are cheaply made and always rust due to condensation that forms between the bowl and cistern. Next I call this my insurance policy Grab a pot of plumbers Mait.

Plumbers Mait creates seals around taps and drains and anything else plumbing related. Place the plumbers mait on the mounting face of the plate the side that will be against the cisternaround the edge of the hole. Press the plate against the cistern until it sticks, then slide the siphon back through the hole and start to screw the plastic nut back on, keep turning the nut until the nut is hand tight. Once hand tight, hold the siphon tightly and then finish off the tightening with your grips, or spanner.

Grab the doughnut washer, place over the pipe flat side first and slide onto the pipe until the washer is practically flush against the plate. Slide the bolts into the slots on the mounting plate, then carefully pick up the cistern and place on top of the toilet bowl making sure the bolts slide into the holes on the toilet bowl.

Once the cistern is nice and tight to the toilet bowl, refit the water supply back to the cistern and remount the how to do tae kwon do moves back to the wall.

Turn on how to fix a close coupled toilet isolation valve, check for any leaks around the water supply nut, if there is any, turn off the water, and wrap some How to hook up ceiling fan tape around the thread 3 times and refit. While the toilet is flushing check around the base of the cistern to see if there is any sign of leakage.

If there is, tighten the wing nuts up a little more. Hopefully your not afraid of fixing a leaking close coupled toilet cistern now, if it still feels daunting, just have a good read again and watch the video as you go, pausing it between each step.

Keep in mind, once you master this repair, the same process is also used to remove and repair the toilets siphon when it fails to flush. Each and every week I put my heart and soul into providing you with great content to help with any DIY jobs around the home. Tags : fix toilet leaking cistern leaking toilet toilet problems. I found the cistern was silicon sealed to wall tiles and difficult to remove.

A Japanese saw cut the sealer with ease. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. March 30, sherlockmaintenance 0 2 Comments.

So take a deep breath and lets get some tools together. Share: Tags : fix toilet leaking cistern leaking toilet toilet problems. Categories: Guides Repairs. November 21, at am. December 6, at pm. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.

5 thoughts on “Fixing A Close Coupled Toilet Leaking Fresh Water”

Toilet syphons are normally reliable, but the diaphragm inside of the syphon can eventually fail. Replacing the syphon on a high level or low level toilet is.

How I renewed the coupling kit which joins my toilet cistern and pan. I did this to repair a Close Coupled Toilet leaking fresh water between the cistern and pan. Water was leaking from the coupling joint when the toilet was flushed. The first sign of a problem was the water on the floor around the base of the closet pan. There was not a lot and fortunately it was clear and without a smell. I cleaned it up but it kept reappearing. On closer inspection it had run down from the top of the pan near its coupling with the cistern.

This is difficult to discover. It requires something akin to a headstand with a torch to see it. Another way to detect it can be to feel for wetness on various parts of the closet pan. NOTE: The leaking water often runs around the toilet outlet giving the impression that it is a sewage leak when its not. I have had past experience of my toilet leaking water from the coupling between the cistern and closet pan. In this case I guessed correctly that a leaky coupling was the source of the water.

That suggests 10 to 12 years is as long as they last when the plate can rust away. In the past, and in this case, the coupling plate was corroded and the sealing doughnut had lost all flexibility. Under these conditions the seal is lost between the two. The rusty plate can lose its strength if it completely rots away or it can just become permeable.

This means water can seep through the rust. You can see what remains of my old coupling plate and doughnut in Pic. This is the orientation seen from underneath the cistern when looking up. Modern close coupled toilets often have two holes in the cistern for fitting stainless steel bolts with rubber washers.

These are tightened to the cistern to prevent them leaking. In between these bolts is the hole for fitting the outlet valve.

Then when the cistern is lowered onto the closet pan the bolts pass through the anchoring holes and the valve passes into a central hole in the pan. When the bolts are anchored to it with nuts steel washers and rubber washers the rubber gasket is squashed to seal the central hole. The rubber gasket plays the same part as the doughnut in older toilet models. The older method of coupling a cistern directly to a closet pan without a pipe in between uses a steel coupling plate up to 3mm thick.

Some thinner ones are pressed into a stronger shape see other brands and models of toilet. With luck, any new plate will be made of stainless steel or plastic. Older plates were made of rust-able steel. They may have been painted, pressed from tin-plate , electroplated or galvanised but they rusted nonetheless. The older plates were certainly not up to the job.

Well, during winter months they get bathed in condensation running down cisterns in bathrooms with high humidity levels. The water runs to the lowest point of the cistern which is where the coupling plate is attached. Also toilets are cleaned with corrosive chemicals. These too run down the cistern and along the top of the closet pan so they collect at the inaccessible coupling plate and corrode it. Not only does the coupling plate get extremely wet but the bolts and wingnuts do too.

The solution is to grease them well during installation. Unfortunately grease is messy. People get it on themselves when they clean. Children may get it on themselves. It can attract other dirt and hair. Combined, the condensation and corrosive liquids make a meal of coupling plates. Sometimes rust flakes come out from under the cistern when the toilet is being cleaned. Let this be a warning sign. When the plate in contact with the doughnut seal rusts it becomes porous and flushing water begins to leak.

You may ask why flushing water would come out of the place at which the cistern and closet pan are coupled, since the water pours down and is aimed through the hole in the pan. Well the water is forced down into a confined space with considerable momentum and that is turned into pressure. It then splashes up into the doughnut seal area and escapes any way it can through any gaps it finds.

None of this is due to their basic purpose but because of design and materials used. Under the closet pan are all those screw threads and wing nuts hanging down greased or not. Some inclined to go rusty. None of it ideal territory for cleanliness.

Yes this is what silicon sealant is for. Then you hit the problems when it has to be removed for maintenance. Be aware condensation on the outside of the cistern may get trapped there. NOTE: Most of these instructions also apply to toilet cisterns using siphons and handles too, not just those with two button outlet valves.

The complete process for changing the coupling plate is detailed in the following numbered sections as per the above list. If the plumbing is up to date the Fill Valve of the cistern will be connected via a flexible connector with a built in Stop Tap. See Pic. If there is no local Stop Tap the main Stop Cock for the property will have to be turned off while the work is done. That will cut off water to all devices not served by a header tank.

After the water supply is turned off flush the toilet with the large flush to empty the cistern. Then unscrew the clamping nut from the Fill Valve. Have an old towel to hand to mop up a small amount of water. This will come out of the connecting hose. The cistern is then ready to be removed. It may contain a small amount of water. The cistern is fixed to the wall with two screws so for that reason alone the lid must be removed. Having the lid off also makes the cistern much lighter to lift off the closet pan once the bolts holding it down have been undone.

A full set of instructions, with pictures, explaining how I removed my cistern lid is available here:. Cisterns generally have two holes in the porcelain at the back so that they can be screwed to the wall. My cistern is like that so I removed those screws at this stage. The bolts which pull down the coupling plate, and hence the cistern, onto the Closet Pan commonly have Wing Nuts.

But they may have hexagonal nuts instead. There should also be steel washers and sometimes there may be rubber washers too.

They even the pressure on the closet pan when the bolts are at a slight angle. NOTE: When making a repair keep the rubber washers for re-use. The repair kit may not have any. If not rusted, wing nuts may be loosened by hand.

A leather glove may be needed. Either wing nuts or hex nuts can be undone with an adjustable wrench or gas pliers. You have to use whatever tool fits into the available space. It can be hard to see whats happening.

The ability to work blind may be required when the toilet is in the corner of a room say. When the cistern is lifted off the closet pan it may be dirty. The best place for working on it might be outside. Turn it upside down to drain any water out of it and place it on something soft to protect the porcelain.

With the cistern upside down remove the doughnut seal to gain access to the clamping nut of the outlet valve. That nut needs to be carefully removed anti-clockwise and re-used.

So, one has to be careful not to chew it up with whatever wrench or pliers are used. The problem is, finding a tool capable of opening to such a large diameter. The outlet valve has to be held with one hand while the other operates the wrench.

This is the time to clean anything that looks dirty and to check if either the inlet valve or outlet valve need any attention, or replacing. A rusty coupling plate may have left some nasty looking rust marks on the porcelain of the cistern and closet pan. These may need a fine abrasive to remove them. I use a green scourer as shown below in Pic. If the sealing ring is removed make sure it is either replaced or bedded back down on a clean and smooth area of the cistern and the valve. If particles of rubber have broken off the old sealing ring then carefully scrape them away from the valve flange and the perimeter of the cistern hole.

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